FIXED WTW4800XQ1 The good ol' Whirlpool Lid Lock Flashing Light Problem

[Jmcooper]

Model Number

WTW4800XQ1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

Red Lid Lock light flashing intermittently when you try to start a cycle.
Automatic Test Mode -- You can bypass this and all steps up to spin cycle work (ie cold valve, hot valve)
Manual Test Mode -- Lid Lock won't work, nor will anything that requires the lid to be locked (but water and agitator, etc work)

I tried replacing the lid lock (W10404050) and I am still having the same problem.
I also checked the main control board to see if it was fried and it was 120V AC at the power supply terminal and 13V DC @ J2-3.

I really don't want to order another $50 part for it to not change anything, so I'd like a suggestion on what to do next?
I'm thinking about replacing the shift actuator because there is a "clicking" noise like something is trying to engage but it can't when I try to start the cycle.

Thanks for any help!
Justin Cooper

 

[Jake]

Yes Justin, that sounds like possibly your shift actuator may be the culprit. But lets verify that first.

There has been a few service bulletins posted for this model washer you have, This model is a Whirlpool - Vertical Modular Washer. I'm going to post what SENSING does first, then you will need to locate your tech. data sheet and check for error codes and post what the error codes say.

SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Now I'm posting your Lid Lock Switch and the video of how to access and replace it, but I don't want you to replace the lid switch again unless you get an error code saying to replace it. The main reason I'm posting your lid lock switch and video is just to show you how to access your tech. data sheet.

Here's the lid lock switch for your model:
Door Lock W10404050


Watch this video below, Once you have the top up, there should be a tech. data sheet inside the front panel.

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order - Video Included:
Shift Actuator WPW10006355


Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[Jmcooper]

thanks Jake!

This is just what I needed. I'm going to try what you suggested tonight and I'll write back with results.
I have noticed a lot of posts on "this" washer keep referring to F7E5 etc but my washer doesn't have a display so I have been drawing a 5 block diagram of which lights flash.
The first data tech sheet I had was for a different model and it had the codes for the display listed, but I had Whirlpool send me a different tech sheet for my exact model ... the one with no display and the "Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done" buttons. The other whirlpool that mine gets confused with has a first light that is 3 different words (like fill/something/something). Do you know what I'm talking about Jake?

Anyways... I'm going to clear out all the diagnostic codes then try the manual tests and see what pops up.

Thanks!

 

[Jmcooper]

BTW I just read the fault display mode thing about how to figure out what F# and E# it is... so that makes sense now

 

[Jmcooper]

Results:

Before clearing, after running automatic test, and after manual testing all fault codes were as follows:

F5E1, F5E3, F5E2, and just the sensing light = F0E0.

I cleared it several times but always have the same fault codes displayed after every diagnostic I run.
I did also notice that when running the automatic diagnostic test I heard the same "clicking" noise that fails when the lid lock is supposed to engage when the shifter is supposed to be actuating (right before agitation begins). During the automatic and manual tests, I cannot get the washer to run at all because it still thinks that the lid isn't locked. Everything else, including hot and cold valve and drain pump work perfectly.

I also wanted to say, the reason our washer broke is because the water company "accidentally" turned off our water while we were running a load. I didn't know if this might have thrown off the timing of the shifter arm or something?

Thanks
J

 

[Jake]

Sorry Justin for the delay, had to relocate to Arizona. You probably already fixed it by now, just trying catch up on unanswered threads in case others with this same issue are following along.

I have noticed a lot of posts on "this" washer keep referring to F7E5 etc but my washer doesn't have a display so I have been drawing a 5 block diagram of which lights flash.
The first data tech sheet I had was for a different model and it had the codes for the display listed, but I had Whirlpool send me a different tech sheet for my exact model ... the one with no display and the "Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done" buttons. The other whirlpool that mine gets confused with has a first light that is 3 different words (like fill/something/something). Do you know what I'm talking about Jake?

Yes, Justin I see that now.

From what your saying it sounds like your lid switch may be the issue.

TEST #8 Lid Lock:
(click to enlarge)


Jake

 

[sinister1]

I'm having this issue on my Whirpool Cabrio washer. I replaced the shifter, ran the auto test, and cleared the codes but still having the issue. I'm trying to read the fault codes but I don't think I'm doing it right (no display). When I put in diagnostic mode, I turn the dial to Done, hit start, and turn the knob clockwise. The only light that blinks is the Sensing LED. When i tried the calibration mode, i'm able to start the calibration but soon after, the LID LED light just blinks and doesn't do anything else after. I would have to unplug the unit to clear the lid lock. I'm suspecting its the lid lock switch? Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Jake]

Hi,

We need the model number of your washer first. If you have the same exact model number as the original poster of this thread then that would be very odd if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue with yours.

Click here: Appliance Parts at RepairClinic. 125 Brands. 365 Day Returns.

Then you will see a link that says: Help me find my model number.

Jake

 

[sinister1]

Hey Jake,

Thanks for the assistance. The model is WTW5500XW0. My model is the one without the display. As I mentioned earlier, it's strange that I'm not getting any fault codes or I'm interpreting it totally wrong. I downloaded the manual and can easily get into diagnostic mode but when I go thru the steps, the only light that blinks is the Sensing (left most light) LED. I've cleared the code numerous times, run an automatic test (it completes), and check for fault codes, and nothing. Then I've tried to do a small wash and it gives me a blinking LID lock LED a few times before it finally works (after unplugging the cord a couple of times). After the successful wash, I'll check for the codes again and I only get the Sensing LED again, even after numerous turns of the the knob to see if it will show me something different. When I do a calibration, it fails and the only LID lock LED light is on and blinking.

I'm hoping its not the main control board. I might as well just buy a new washer lol. It's only 4 years old..

Thanks again!

 

[Jake]

Ok, it sounds like your lid lock switch is the problem from that information.

Does the lid lock at all?

You'll need to test your lid lock switch in post #6.

Your model uses the exact same lid lock switch as I posted the link to in my post#2 above.

Jake

 

[sinister1]

Ok, it sounds like your lid lock switch is the problem from that information.

Does the lid lock at all?

You'll need to test your lid lock switch in post #6.

Your model uses the exact same lid lock switch as I posted the link to in my post#2 above.

Jake

When the lid lock is blinking, no it doesn't lock. When it's blinking, the washer is non-functional as well (pressing power or start doesn't do anything). I will have to unplug the washer from the wall to completely reset it. It takes 1 or 2 tries before the washer functions normally.

 

[Jake]

Ok,

Then your lid lock switch is bad.

Here's the lid lock switch for your model you can order here:
Door Lock W10404050


Jake

 

[Econo Appliance]

Whirlpool / Kenmore cabrio lid lock flashing

Could be lid lock, control board, motor, shift actuator, gearcase, etc

I rarely find the Whirlpool on-board diagnostics to be helpful. You need to scour the machine yourself, using logic and rationale.

Here's an example of an oozing run capacitor, which cause blinking lid lock light but no diagnostic codes.

 

[Crazy]

I also have the Admiral Model#ATW4675YQ.

It doesn't spin & the Lid Lock light flashes as soon as it starts to spin. I ran the diagnostic, but I don't quite get what it means, even with the book. Can anyone help me out? I get lights as follows...fill flashes then goes off & Rinse, Final Spin, Complete lights come on. The second error is Cycle Complete flashes then goes off & Fill, Rinse, Final Spin, Cycle Complete lights come on. I don't want to order the Shift Actuator if that isn't what I need to fix.

 

[Jake]

I would need to see your tech. data sheet to assist you on this, I can't locate the online version of your tech. data sheet.

If you can scan and upload the tech. data sheet here I can look it over and interpret it for you.

If your not able to do that, then you can physically test your shift actuator to see if its bad.

Here's how to test your Shift Actuator - You will need a multimeter to test it.

TEST#3A:
Remove the J16 connector from the main control board and ohm test across the J16, 1 and 2 Connector Pinouts.

Resistance should be between 2k to 3.5k ohms.

If values are correct, reconnect J16 and proceed to step 7

7. Plug in washer or reconnect power.

8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode. MANUAL TEST MODE is on page 5-9 in the repair manual.

IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.

NOTE: It will take between 4-15 seconds for the shifter to change states.

If 120 VAC is present, go to step 9.

If 120 VAC is NOT present, go to step 17.

17. Replace main control.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify.


Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here:
Shift Actuator WPW10006355


Access/replacement Video included in the part link.

Jake

 

[Crazy]

Thanks Jake, I think I will order the part & hope for the best. I bought a Multimeter at an auction this summer, but I have no idea how to use it nor do I understand what you told me to test with it!!

 

[Jake]

Ok, I understand.

Keep us posted when you get it installed.

Jake

 

[Crazy]

Thanks Jake, I did have a friend help me with the Multimeter & we got no reading, so decided to go ahead & order the Actuator. I discovered that I had corrosion on the plug to the Actuator from a basement flood last spring, I guess. So I cleaned the connector & installed the new Actuator, the washer is working fine again.

Thanks to everyone out there that helped determine this as the problem & especially the videos showing how to perform this job. I do want to add though, that the video link here did not mention recalibrating the machine after changing any parts.

I am so happy I did not have to spend the original cost (or more) of the machine to get it back working!

 

[Jake]

Excellent, good job.

that the video link here did not mention recalibrating the machine after changing any parts.

Yes, I will let them that, good observation.

Jake