FIXED WTW4800XQ4 won't spin but getting conflicting signals of what is actually wrong

GeeWiz

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toronto
Model Number
WTW4800XQ4
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Whirlpool Model WTW4800XQ4

Problem: While doing a regular wash, the machine completes the following stages sensing, fill, wash, and then the problem happens. In the rinse stage, the water fills, then all action stops for a moment and then it drains. There is no agitation or spinning of the basket. So after the drain, there is a bit of water in the basket and the “Spin” LED is flashing. So I reset the wash selector dial to rinse/spin to finish off the laundry. It took a few tries but I finally was able to rinse out the residual detergent and complete the laundry.

The washer is at my parent’s house so I don’t have immediate access to the machine.

I was able to do some troubleshooting.
I tested the basket and agitator by spinning it CW & CCW. Here were the results:
Basket spun CW easy to move
Basket spun CCW easy
Agitator spun CW easy
Agitator spun CCW Spun the basket and offered more resistance.

Next, I accessed the diagnostic feature to checked on the error codes: found an online tech sheet
  • Sensing, rinse, spin, done =F7 Motor unable to reach target RPM
Rinses, spin, done = E7
  • Sensing, rinse, spin, done = F7 Basket Speed sensor fault
done = E1
  • Sensing = F0 No Fault
= E0
  • Sensing = F0 No Fault
= E0

I cleared the error codes and ran in Automatic Test Mode.
Here are the results:
Lid lock, cold valve, hot valve, both valve, agitates, drain pump activates –OK. Fails at no spinning. LED lights flashing (rinsing, lid lock)
Pushing the START button for 3 seconds did not cancel the cycle. Unable to open lid. Tried many times but was finally able to unlock it. What another problem?
Went back into diagnostic for error codes: No error code, F7E1, F0E0.

Cleared error codes and performed the manual test
It worked to drain then fails at Low Spin and beyond because I could not get the proper LED light sequence to appear. The “lid lock” LED would not light. What another problem?
Error codes: F0E0, F7E1

Tried the UI test:
All I get is the “Done” LED to flash. Turning the cycle selector knob doesn’t light up any of the other LEDs. Am I doing something wrong? As I am reading the instructions again … Is the rotary switch another knob?

Weird? Ok let try another manual test. Cleared codes. Same result with the “Lid Lock” LED.
Tried an Auto Test again. Everything worked! Strange, ok tried it again. This time Motor spins tub but won’t unlock lid. What? Tried another Auto Test. It won’t agitate now. Another test fails at “Shifter moves to spin position”. What is consistent is the darn flashing lid lock and F7E1. Takes a lot of pushing/holding START button and moving the selector dial until finally it unlocks.

I also tried a tachometer test. Could not get the LEDs to light as I turned the basket by hand. Another problem?

So any thoughts on why so many things seem to be failing? Could 1 thing generate so many problems? Is this a sign of a failing control panel? Many conflicting symptoms.

I’ll check the connectors and bring a multi-meter the next time I visit them. Any clues on how to access the control panel? And if I need to tip the machine … how do I empty the tub of remaining water? Do I need to dismantle the agitator from the basket? Would that require a special tool?
 

Jake

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Here's the tech. data sheet for your model: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1psVH4VJFVWLEFo_Kf8Dwp9OlD8vPDuVG

Seems to be multiple problems, but you are getting a constant error F7E1. 9 times out of 10 the new shift actuator fixes the F7E1 error code.

Also check for a cut wire, look at what this member found with his: MVWX500XW1 Maytag washer won't spin on spin cycle.

Read post #31 and you can download the attachment bigbuck posted, then look at post #35 where he shows the cut wire.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here:
Shift Actuator WPW10006355


There is a video that shows you how to replace it in the shift actuator part link.

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

GeeWiz

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Much thanks. We update you tomorrow.

When I tilt or access the bottom of the washer, any easy way to drain out the water from the tub? Currently no water in the basket but I'm sure there is some inside the tub.
 

Jake

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Just remove the rubber hoses to the drain pump.

Here's the drain pump for your model:
Drain Pump WPW10276397


There is a video on how to access it in the part link.

Have a lot of big old towels handy, that water in the tub will gush out when you remove the rubber hoses to the drain pump.

Jake
 

GeeWiz

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Reading the tech bulletin and the tech guide, one section I don't completely understand. In the chart "Shifter to Main Control & Drain Pump" (test under 3a for example) The first line is noted as:
Shifter connector Pin 2 to main Control J16-2. What's the Shifter connector? Is that the plug that goes into J16?
 

Jake

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What's the Shifter connector? Is that the plug that goes into J16?
Yes, exactly.:)

Jake
 

GeeWiz

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After reading about the cut wire … I thought that must be it! Imagine my surprise when I tipped up the machine to discover that my model isn't setup with an induction coil. Anyway, all of the connectors and the wiring looked to be good. I doubt there would be a cut wire inside the wiring loom as it snakes up to the main control. Checked the belt and pulleys and they all are good. Nothing showing obviously damage under the machine. Was able to check #3A step 6 for the resistance of the shifter motor … ok at 2.5K. My round probes are slightly bigger than the slots in the connector … is there a trade tip on doing this? Also is there a tip on doing testing when probes ares on the connector and/or on the main control AND it requires you to activate some cycle feature on the washer? The probes I'm using are the stick variety and its kind of hard to hold down the probes and trigger of the washer.

I'm going to order the shifter in the meantime.
 

Jake

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Rick made this diagram below to show you how to use a safety pin when your meter probes won't fit.

Safety pin.jpg


Jake
 

GeeWiz

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Thats a clever field trick. Safety pins are a common household item. I'll keep a picture of this with my meter. Thanks.
 

Jake

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TEST#3A:
Remove the J16 connector from the main control board and ohm test across the J16, 1 and 2 Connector Pinouts.
Resistance should be 2k to 3.5k Ω.
--->If values are correct, reconnect J16 and proceed to step 7.

 If values are open or out of range, go to step 13.
7. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9.

IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.

NOTE: It will take between 4-15 seconds for the shifter to change states.

If 120 VAC is present, go to step 9.

If 120 VAC is NOT present, go to step 17.

17. Replace main control.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify.

Jake
 

GeeWiz

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Need clarification on this:
8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1).

But the connector was put backed into the J16. So how am I going to be doing this test? The way its written, I read this as testing from the main board as it does not saying from the connector end. But I think it should be tested from the connector end, as the other end of the harness is connected to the Shifter and we're testing the Shifter. Similarly, when testing the optical sensor (step 10), J2-3 & J2-4, from connector or main?
 

Jake

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From the main control board.:)

Jake
 

GeeWiz

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Hopefully someone can benefit from my experience ... Before doing the actuator swap, I decided to try a few more tests. In Test#1 step # 7 & Test#3a step #10; from the main board ... I could not find a 13VDC from j2-3 & 4. I previously tested step #11 so I knew it would fail. So that made me feel comfortable that the actuator was the problem.

Swapped it out ... retested Test#1 step # 7 & Test#3a step #10 ... BINGO 12.5 VDC. On to step 11 (activate tachometer) - successful. The automatic test mode completed successfully. The missing stages from previous test ran and the proper LEDS all light up as expected. So the many issues that I had were all traced back to the faulty actuator. So one can have a multiple problems suggesting multiple issues but in the end one problem was the root cause. Mark this thread as FIXED.

Last question ... can the broken actuator be repaired? I think it might be a fault optical sensor.

Jake, much thanks for your help! As you noted before ... 9 times out of 10 the new shift actuator fixes the F7E1 error code.
 

Jake

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Excellent GeeWiz, glad the new shift actuator fixed it. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Last question ... can the broken actuator be repaired? I think it might be a fault optical sensor.
No, not that I'm aware of.

Jake
 
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