FIXED WTW4950XW0 Whirlpool Washer Shift actuator going bad?

mgroeger

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
3
Location
NC
Model Number
WTW4950XW0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
1-5 years
I have a Whirlpool washing machine model WTW4950XW0. I have already replaced the lid switch and it has not alleviated the following problem. I think it is the shift actuator but would like a double check on that.

Currently the washer fills, washes and drains properly. It is not spinning right all of the time. Sometimes it spins perfect, other times sort of ok (clothes are a little more wet than normal) and most times it doesn’t spin the water out at all. It tries and then quickly gives up leaving it on the spin LED. Yesterday I heard it go into spin cycle and then the motherboard started clicking. When it clicked the spin would stop then start back up trying to get to speed. Then it would click and stop and repeat again. Eventually it stopped clicking and it spun out.

I pulled the F7E1 error code which relates to the motor, cap and actuator.

I ran through the automatic test and all steps ran perfectly EXCEPT the spin test. That test started seemed to stutter or hesitate and did not get up to speed. Agitation tests worked fine. I then went into manual test mode. All tests worked fine EXCEPT spin AND NOW agitate. When I try to test those four of the five LEDs flash continuously and the test is not performed.

Any advice?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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102,132
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McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. This is very important since most complaints start with the lid lock on and blinking, or the unit will not start and spin.

If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the
transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here(Video Included):
WPW10006355 Shift Actuator


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

mgroeger

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
3
Location
NC
Hi Jake,

Thanks for the info. I have seen this reply before on other threads. I already have replaced the switch because it is a standard goto since it craps out a lot (which didn't fix the problem) and just now went ahead and ordered the actuator.

The one thing that is weird is when I run in AUTOMATIC diagnostic test all tests run fine EXCEPT spin. The spin cycle struggles, this would seem to indicate a bad actuator.
When I go into MANUAL diagnostic all tests run fine EXCEPT for spin and agitation. When I go to those four checks four of the five LEDs light up, the lid lock blinks and nothing happens. Very odd, it doesn't even try to run the check. That is the part that is very confusing.

I watched the video and when the part gets here I will replace it, clear the error codes and run a calibration on the machine. Will let you know how it goes. If you have any insight on the reason as to why the MANUAL test won't run please let me know. Again my error code is F7E1.

Thanks,
Mike
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
102,132
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If you have any insight on the reason as to why the MANUAL test won't run please let me know.
That sounds like possibly a bad control board. But go ahead and install the new shift actuator first and see if you get the same results.

Here's the control board for your model:
W10393489 Electronic Control Board


Jake
 

mgroeger

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
3
Location
NC
Hi Jake,

I wound up getting the part today after ordering it yesterday morning, needless to say I was happily surprised.

I just got done putting the part on, clearing the error codes and calibrating the washer and the result is it is working properly. Very grateful for that since a new mother board would have really hurt. Thank you for the advice, it is very much appreciated.

On a side note the part I pulled was "KT-155052.1_rev010" the new part was _rev012. I wonder if with rev012 they corrected the failure of the original part. I hope so...

Thanks,
Mike
 

Jake

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Excellent Mike, Glad the new shift actuator fixed it.:)

Jake
 

Klm4jc

Premium Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2019
Messages
2
Location
Wisconsin
HI Jake,

This is an old thread so I hope you still answer questions regarding this issue. I've been having issues with my Whirlpool Top Loader (WTW5000DW0). I've replaced the 'splutch' and the belt already and have become a little versed now in the diagnostic process since neither of those two things fixed my issue which is basically that it doesn't fix my spin issue. I've run through the automatic diagnostics and I am getting the dreaded F7E1 code first. I've done some of the troubleshooting suggestions in the tech manual including the optical reader, which works fine. When I run through the diagnostics in manual mode, everything works except the slow spin. Even the high spin works, though the basket seems to get pretty wobbly which seems odd since I don't have a load in the machine at the time.

I've even used a multimeter (to the best of my ability) and it seems the control board is properly getting current to the shift actuator. I do not want to spend the money on a control board but everything I've read (and tried) so far would seem to indicate that it isn't a control board issue. I'm willing to replace the actuator or capacitor still but am not sure what else to do to test it. I do notice when I go into the slow spin mode that I can hear a rather loud 'click' before it attempts to spin. The wash plate spins but the basket doesn't really get going then it faults out.

When I do the fast spin test, same thing but the basket gets going pretty good then eventually the spin quits. I'm not sure if it is supposed to quit on its own or when you push the button to stop the test but I on high spin it spins pretty fast for a minute or so and then stops by itself. I also ran a calibration after I had installed the new splutch and belt and it ran through the calibration but the spin cycle seemed to go on for 5 minutes, (shaking pretty good with no load I might add). I inspected the suspension springs and everything looks intact. So, I am kind of at a stand still with what is actually wrong. I can't seem to find any information on my particular problem. Any insight you can give me to help isolate the problem so I can fix it would be greatly appreciated.

Kevin
 

Jake

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Hi Kevin,

Its possibly the hub underneath the washplate, that's stripped.

Here's the hub for your model, its located underneath the washplate:
W10528947 Hub


I'd first check your hub to see if the teeth are starting to grind down.

The hub has screws that hold it in place, you will see them once you remove the washplate.

To remove your washplate, Watch this video below, wiggle the washplate while pulling it up.

[video=youtube_share;2l19ojF3pnA]

Here's a couple photos below that show this hub as stripped, see the missing teeth?

Jake
 

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Klm4jc

Premium Member
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Jan 13, 2019
Messages
2
Location
Wisconsin
Jake,

That looks like the culprit!!! The teeth are pretty worn down and it would make sense that it would slip. I truly appreciate the advise as I did not come across anything that mentioned this part as a potential problem! I'll be ordering the part and installing. I will let you know if that indeed was the fix. I assume I should run a calibration once I install just because I have been messing with the diagnostics so much.

Thank you again, you made my day!

Kevin
 

Jake

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Excellent Kevin, yes the new hub should fix it.:)

I assume I should run a calibration once I install just because I have been messing with the diagnostics so much.
Yes, correct.

Let us know how it goes after you replace it.

Jake
 

Chicago Lee

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Ohio
I wanted to reply to this post with a thank you because I was having similar issues and replacing the hub seems to have fixed the problem. I initially replaced the shift assembly which didn’t fix the problem.The photos are of the bottom of the hub, which I think show the teeth better. Thanks again.
 

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Jake

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Messages
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Yes I see that Lee, glad to hear the new hub fixed yours too.:)

Jake
 
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