FIXED WTW5000DW1 Whirlpool Washer WTW5000DW1 washer stopping in random modes, 2 bad boards really???

[chad541121]

Model Number

WTW5000DW1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

I ran into an issue with the washer stopping in random modes. Tub full of water, or clothes still wet. I ran diagnostics and got a code 41. After testing the circuit board I found the board has a 5v source but not a 12v source.
I also noticed the shift actuator actually working opposite of what it should when in spin mode, only the agitator spins. However, when in agitate mode the entire drum and agitator moves. I assumed it was because of the missing
12v source. I ordered a refurbished main board and before completely installing it, I tested it and its missing the 12v source as well! Needless to say the washer still isn't working correctly. I am awaiting response from the refurbishing
company. Does any know what part on the control board goes bad causing a loss of 12v source? Maybe a schematic so I can get this thing going.

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, I see no error 41. Fault/Error Code Display Method Fault/error codes are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals.
All fault/error codes have an F# and an E#. The F# indicates the suspect System/Category and the E# indicates the suspect Component system.
Look on Page 3 under--->FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE (Pgs 6–7)

Look on page 12--->TEST #1: Main Control

J12 Pin 1 is the +12 volts DC source. Do all the steps in TEST #1 and keep us posted.

Then on Page 13--->TEST #3a: Drive System – Shifter. Do all the steps in TEST #3a and let us know what you find.

The most common part to go bad on these machines is the Shift Actuator.

Here's the Shift Actuator for your model:
W10913953 Actuator


Jake

 

[chad541121]

Sorry. It’s the 4 lights then 1 light. Which is basket speed fault. I’m sure it’s because only the agitator is spinning and not the basket when it’s in spin mode. I have done test 1 and I do not have 12volts. I also tested with all other connectors unplugged to verify it was not a faulty harness or component causing the loss of 12v

 

[Jake]

Page 12--->If +12VDC is not present, go to step 8.

8. Check if shifter assembly is affecting the main control DC supplies.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Remove connector J12 from main control.
c. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
d. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Perform the +12VDC check inside header J12 on the board – do not short pins together. --->If one or more DC voltages are still missing, go to step 9.
--->If the DC voltages return, check for short in harness between main control and shifter assy. ---->If harness and connections are good, replace shifter assembly.
9. Main Control has malfunctioned

Jake

 

[chad541121]

I have done the suggested things and it leads to Main control has malfunctioned. I specifically tested for 12v on the refurbished board by only plugging in the 120v connector as soon as I opened the package. It did not have it. But I installed it anyways and sure enough. Same issue as the original board. Can you tell me what components affect the 12v source? Do you have A board schematic?

 

[Jake]

I posted the Tech Sheet schematic for you to download in post #2 above.

The Shift Actuator gets the 12 volts DC.

The Optical Sensor is integrated into the Shift Actuator as well.

Look at Page 14--->Optical Sensor:
10. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the black probe to J12-4 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J12-1 (+12VDC).
--->If +12VDC is present, go to step 11.
--->If +12VDC is not present, go to step 17.

Jake

 

[chad541121]

I have the manual. I had went thru all those steps before reaching out for help. I do not have 12v, the tech sheet sends me to step 17. Replace control board. So I have 2 boards now with missing 12v. I was hoping someone could tell me which parts on the circuit board i need to test/replace.

 

[Jake]

I was hoping someone could tell me which parts on the circuit board i need to test/replace.

We can't, there is no way to know, they don't make the control board circuit schematic public.

Jake

 

[chad541121]

We can't, there is no way to know, they don't make the control board circuit schematic public.

Jake

Ok. I’m pretty sure I’m testing things correctly. On page 14, step 9, is says spin should be +5vdc and agitate should be 0vdc. By your experience, can you think of any reason those values would be reversed? On bottom of page 14 it states the switch is closed in agitate mode, however, the clutch is actually in spin mode. When I manually put washer in spin mode, the shifter unlocks the basket. Then when I manually put machine in agitate mode it actuates the shifter to lock the basket. That issue along with not having 12v on terminal j12-1 I’m convinced it’s a bad board. What do you think? I had replaced the clutch a few months back. I don’t see anyway it can be installed backwards.

 

[Jake]

Can you make a video of this problem happening please and upload it here?

Look at this thread and the video in post #3:

FIXED - Whirlpool Washer WTW5000DW3 Agitator won't work

www.applianceblog.com

Is yours doing the same thing? If so, you'd need a new shift actuator to fix it.

Your model uses the exact same shift actuator:
W10913953 Actuator


Jake

 

[chad541121]

I took a coupe videos. I’m in manual mode. The shifter is functioning as you can see, however it’s functioning exactly backwards!

 

[Jake]

Yes, per your 1st video the Shift Actuator is the culprit.

Order and Replace the Shift Actuator and you will be good to go.

Jake

 

[chad541121]

Seems odd the shift actuator can still work but function exactly opposite. I have a shift actuator coming. Still don't have 12v inside the plug on the control module like the manual says I should, but I'll let you know if the actuator fixes it. Thank you for all your time.

 

[chad541121]

Yes, per your 1st video the Shift Actuator is the culprit.

Order and Replace the Shift Actuator and you will be good to go.

Jake

So soon as I opened the package for the new shift actuator. I saw that the small arm the touches the switch was in a different spot on the cam. I can figure out how that’s even possible. But hard lesson learned. Spent time chasing down control board voltage per the manual that still doesn’t read 12v when it’s suppose to! Replace control board unnecessarily. The first pic shows the position the little arm should be on the cam when the switch is in spin mode-switch open! The second pic is where the arm was on my actuator causing this whole issue-switch closed! Causing the control board to think it’s was in spin vs agitate mode. Hope this helps someone else out. Thanks for all your help Jake!

 

[Jake]

Excellent Chad, glad to hear the new shift actuator fixed it.

Thanks for the update and added information and photos you uploaded!

Jake