WTW5500XW1 Whirlpool Washer won't spin

[jc12345]

Model Number

WTW5500XW1

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

6-10 years

I'm having the exact same symptoms as WhiteWolf posted here:

WTW5500XW1 Whirlpool Washer Lid Latch

I replaced the lid latch (W10404050) on my Whirlpool Cabrio washer model #WTW5500XW1, but I am still having the same problem. The washer starts the sensing part, but the second time locking it just keeps blinking and that's it. I don't have the money to have someone come out and fix it, so I...

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I had a frayed belt which I replaced but I still have no spin. Running diagnostics, the last 4 errors are in this order:

1. Lid Lock Fault
2. Basket Speed Sensor Fault
3. Motor unble to reach proper RPM
4. Motor Fault

I performed a manual test on the lid lock and it passed. I'm not sure why the lid is not locking during a cycle. I've tested in Normal, Quick Wash and Drain and Spin modes and they all have similar symptoms.

 

[Jake]

If you can spin the tub freely both ways with your hand, then the shift actuator is usually the problem, seen this many times on my service calls.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order - Video Included:
WPW10006355 Shift Actuator


Jake

 

[jc12345]

Perfect, I’ll give it a shot and let you know how I make out. Does replacing the shift actuator require a calibration or is it plug and play?

 

[Jake]

Its plug and play.

Jake

 

[jc12345]

I replaced the shift actuator and it’s stuck on sensing with the lid locked.

 

[Jake]

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, clear the error codes, then unplug the machine for 5 minutes and then plug it back in and do a rinse/drain/spin cycle and see what happens.

Look on page 3 where it says FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE:
2. To clear fault codes:
--->Turn cycle selector knob until the status LEDs flash ON and OFF or “cl” is displayed on 7-segment. (See figure 2, page 2).
--->Press and hold START button for 3 seconds to clear all fault codes. Press POWER to exit Service Diagnostic Mode.

Jake

 

[jc12345]

I cleared the codes and let it sit unplugged. I ran the rinse and spin cycle and it showed the same symptoms as before replacing the shift actuator. After starting the cycle the lid lock light flashed for several minutes. After about 45-60 mins it went through all of the cycles and never actually spun. The lid was unlocked during the entire cycle.

I checked the error codes again and the only code showing up now is basket speed sensor fault.

 

[Jake]

Sounds like you got a defective shift actuator.

Do this: Clear the error code again: Once the code is cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if
after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control, and most likely the wiring harness connections (although still check the BK wire from the shifter to the control). Remember, the timing wheel only turns in the transmission during the spin cycle.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.

This is proof that the shifter/sensor assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

Jake

 

[jc12345]

I reseated all of the connections at the control and at the harnesses and on the motor and shift actuator. I ran heavy agitation and the motor hums every second but the drum never moved. I ran a low spin from manual test mode and the motor hummed and lid lock started blinking. I received a basket speed sensor fault again.

I have another shift actuator coming tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Hopefully this fixes it.

 

[Jake]

Yes, then the new shift actuator should definitely fix it, I replace a lot of these same shift actuators in my local service area here in Arizona and it ALWAYS fixes it.

Jake

 

[jc12345]

Bad news, I put in the 2nd shift actuator and it has the same symptoms. After running rinse and spin I have a flashing lid lock and basket speed sensor fault. Could I have two bad shift actuators?

 

[Jake]

Where are you getting these shift actuators from?

Jake

 

[jc12345]

Amazon for the return capabilities. My local supply house won’t return it if I use it and I’d rather not spend $55 on the OEM part if I can avoid it

 

[Jake]

You need the OEM one, amazon is not a reliable place to get parts from.

I’d rather not spend $55 on the OEM part if I can avoid it

Its $55 or a new washing machine?

$55 is cheaper than a new washer.

Jake

 

[jc12345]

I went through test 3a and I tested the resistance of the shift actuators, you were right, the Amazon pieces are definitely junk.

1. Original Whirlpool - 2.38k ohms
2. Amazon #1 - 1.08k ohms
3. Amazon #2 - 1.09k ohms

I'm stuck on step 15 continuity test. I'm testing continuity from J2 and J16 plugs to the shifter plug. I can't get a successful continuity test on any of the pinouts. If I could measure the resistance successfully on J16-1 and J16-2, wouldn't that confirm that the wiring for those pinouts are good to the shifter plug? I didn't think the leads were long enough on my tester so I tried putting a paperclip in the shifter end of the harness but that didn't work either. I'm trying to rule out the lower washer harness per the tech sheet.

 

[Jake]

Ok, here's your tech. data sheet: https://drive.google.com/file/d/197tM3PztM8VMQn2BdTQOk7yHp5YFSXPZ/view?usp=sharing

Page 14---Step 15:

Use this safety pin trick to get good readings:

 

[jc12345]

Thanks for the safety pin trick that worked out well. Step 15 passed so the lower washer harness is good. Since my OEM shift actuator had a 2.38K ohm reading I went back and started back at step 7.

Step 8 - 120VAC present during spin and 120VAC present during beginning of agitation cycle then goes back to 0VAC. Should the agitation cycle be constant 120VAC like the spin cycle?
Step 9 - Both spin and agitate fluctuated between 0VDC and 5 VDC.
Step 10 - Opitcal Sensor - 12.14 VDC - Does 12.14 VDC qualify as 13VDC or do I have a bad control?
Stepp 11 - Tach verification mode passed

 

[Jake]

Step 8. With a voltmeter set to AC, connect the black probe to J16-2 (N) and red probe to J16-1 (L1). Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9.
IMPORTANT: Lid must be closed with Lid Lock enabled to run the SPIN and AGITATE tests.
NOTE: It will take 4–15 seconds for the shifter to change states.
--->If 120VAC is present, go to step 9.<--- It does not say it should be constant, just as long as you are getting 120 volts AC.
--->If 120VAC is not present, go to step 17.
Shifter Switch:
Step 9. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-1 (Shifter Switch). In manual test mode, switch between Spin and Agitate modes.
Voltage should toggle between 0 and +5VDC.
SPIN = +5 VDC
AGITATE = 0 VDC
--->If voltage corresponds to setting, go to step 10.
--->If voltage does not switch, go to step 12.
Optical Sensor: Step 10. With a voltmeter set to DC, connect the black probe to J2-3 (Circuit Gnd) and red probe to J2-4 (+13VDC). If +13VDC is present, go to step 11. If +13VDC is not present, go to step 17.<---You are not getting the full 13VDC. I don't know if 12.14 VDC is close enough to 13 VDC to count. I always carry a NEW OEM shift actuator in my truck to use for testing purposes. Since you are getting bad shift actuators from Amazon you can't do a reliable replacement test. So either send those back to amazon for a full refund and order the NEW OEM shift actuator I posted above and see if that works, if not you can always sell it on ebay and get most of your money back.
Step 17. If the preceding steps did not correct the problem, replace the main control.
a. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b. Replace the main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in washer or reconnect power. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair

Here's the control board for your model:
W10392998 Electronic Control Board


Jake