FIXED WTW5640XW2 Whirlpool washer not working

[dwschuma]

Model Number

WTW5640XW2

Brand

Whirlpool

Age

1-5 years

Trying to help someone fix a whirlpool washer that is acting up, basically not working. I found out how to run diagnostics and filmed a video of the results. I wrote down the error codes but perhaps the video provides more detailed info? its took big to attach but it can also be viewed here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FMyhgwm4q5TKZf6E8
that video probably provides more detail but a quick summary of error codes I saw were, F5 E1, F2 E1, F7 E1, F0 E0, CL, (and those continue to repeat in that order when I keep turning the knob clockwise). can anyone please help shed some light on what these codes mean, if further testing is required, what am I looking for, and if the codes are conclusive what do I need to fix/replace. I have a multi meter and am pretty savy with electronics and such. Much thanks, and any advice would be appreciated. cheers

 

[dwschuma]

or even just where to find the correct codes would be of much help. I'm also reading about manual test, but I do not know how to do those on this model, so please, any help, thank you. PS, this site is great, so glad I found it

 

[Jake]

Yes, I see the video.

What was wrong with the washer to begin with? When you start a normal load what happens?

Let's clear those error codes and then start a normal test cycle with no clothes in it and tell me what happens or video tape it would be even better.

To clear fault codes:
 Turn cycle selector knob until the status LEDs flash ON and OFF or “CL” is displayed on 7-segment. (See figure 2, page 2).
 Press and hold START button for 3 seconds to clear all fault codes. Press POWER to exit Service Diagnostic Mode.

Here's the tech. data sheet for your model:

W10240504 - Rev C.pdf

drive.google.com

Jake

 

[dwschuma]

Thanks for your help. That tech sheet is exactly what I was looking for. She said, when she tried to run a load, it would not agitate and didn't drain. When I looked at it, I could not get it to start any cycle, except drain and spin. If I reset power and waited for lid lock to reset, Drain and spin, cycle would appear to start, I could hear it spinning, and the drain hose was vitally moving, so I assume it was draining some of the water left from the last load? But then it would stop and shut down after about a minute, and remain lid locked for about another 5 minutes. when I tried normal cycle or any other cycle for that matter, It would lock the lid, I could hear it, then quickly unlock and the lid lock light would keep flashing. I did take a video of me starting the drain and spin cycle yesterday. The washer is already going when the video started, but it had just started. and just to clarify I had not yet cleared any codes when this was filmed, and all other attempts to start various other cycles never could get anything started or moving. At least in this test, I could hear it doing some stuff.

That video is here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9KNRfZGVWLqhxQRw7

So, you're saying, I should go clear the codes, exit diagnostic mode, and video me trying to start a normal cycle? I can't really see it, so much as smell it, and hear it splashing around a little when I move the washer around, but I think there is some leftover water from a previous load. I was concerned that it would sence that water as a full load or something else to otherwise confuse it. Should I try to empty it somehow or tell it manually to drain before clearing codes and trying/testing a normal cycle? It is only about 10 minutes away from me here, but is there anything else I could/ should try while I am there? If after clearing codes, the normal cycle still doesn't want to go, I assume I should go back to diagnostic mode and record those codes again? Is there a chance that all I need to do is clear the codes for it to work?

Again, much thanks. Even if I don't need new parts for this washer, I'll do what I can to return the favor and throw some business your way next time I do need some new parts. Cheers

 

[Jake]

If you don't see water in the tub, then all the water should be gone, the tub top ring has liquid in it for balancing purposes if your hearing slashing when you move the washer.

If you do see water in the tub, then go to MANUAL TEST MODE on page 4 of the diagnostics in the tech. data sheet and then at page 9 you will see a list of all the tests you can run to individually activate all the parts in the washer, DRAIN will be 07 in the display.

When you are in MANUAL TEST MODE run through all those tests and see if all the parts activate, if they do, then clear the error codes and start a normal test cycle and see what happens, if it won't run through a normal test cycle go back and see what error codes you get now.

Jake

 

[dwschuma]

I cleared the codes, and tried a normal wash, same problem. see video here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ytAWVQUxThR97SDe8
then I ran the automatic test mode, and everything seemed to work, but it got stuck at 14, and the lid never unlocked. see: https://photos.app.goo.gl/j4ifeMxPdWHGMvM1A

and I waited quite a while but it never finished. IDK if this is normal but I had to hit the start button to get it to do anything. But still, the lid was still locked so I unplugged it and plugged it back in and the lid unlocked.

Then I went to manual test mode, and tested everything and everything worked until I got to 9, low agitation mode test but I dont think it did anything. I waited about a minute, and it made noises but not really spinning. see https://photos.app.goo.gl/knjNjC2DVVndrtXj8

I did have to go back and manually run the drain some more, apparently, there was still some water, but after doing that, the low agitation mode did seem to do something, making noises but I would not say it was working properly.

I then went to try step 10, high agitation and it beeped and didn't do anything, except the lid lock was blinking, and lid was locked. then I went back to step 9 and it gave me the same error as if the lid was locked and could not open.

Then I tried to run a normal load and it did that same thing you see in the first link, which has been the problem all along. Then I went back to error codes and read only one code, F7 E1. SEE video https://photos.app.goo.gl/vbnNVrnh49FvU6ZZ6

looking inside, it seems to have drained pretty well. see https://photos.app.goo.gl/o9eZTU1EF9MQGRFx9

I see the service manual has numerous things to check. What would you advise I do next? She has renters coming in on Monday, so id love to get it diagnosed, and whatever part I need ordered and on the way today. They'll only be here for a few days so they will just have to live without a washer.

Again much thanks. cheers

 

[Jake]

Ok,

Your shift actuator is bad.

Here's the shift actuator for your model you can order here(Video Included):
Shift Actuator WPW10006355


Let us know how it goes after you replace it.

Jake

 

[dwschuma]

Thanks for all your help Jake! So when I took a look underneath, I saw the belt guard was broken where the belt has obviously come loose (all the way off) and had rubbed against the plastic before completely falling off. I put the belt back on and turned it by hand, and it slipped off pretty quick. I was able to tighten the bolt holding the main pully/wheel/shaft or whatever you want to call it, and the same test, turning the belt by hand seemed to have fixed that problem. I had the actuator in hand but decided to test if the belt might have been the problem all along, thus allowing me to return the other part. But I got the exact same error and problems. SO I put in a new actuator, cleared error codes, tried a load and whala, it's working.

The owner had a bad experience with some renters making a huge mess and apparent general disrespect for the property. I don't think it really matters at this point but she asked me if I thought the broken washer could have been the result of abuse. I suspect it would be hard to break an actuator, even if I set out to intentionally do it, but I'm not sure so I figured maybe you could answer that? Anyways, thanks again for all your help!
Cheers

 

[Jake]

Excellent, glad to hear the new shift actuator fixed it.

Thanks for the update!

I don't think it really matters at this point but she asked me if I thought the broken washer could have been the result of abuse. I suspect it would be hard to break an actuator, even if I set out to intentionally do it, but I'm not sure so I figured maybe you could answer that?

No, those actuators are fairly common to go bad, I doubt the renters broke that on purpose.

And I have seen those belt guards get broken before because of the belt coming off, and the splutch going bad.

Here's the belt guard for your model:

Whirlpool WPW10427633 Belt Shield (AP6021316) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Belt shield WPW10427633 / AP6021316 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Did that belt pulley nut come off? If so, get loctite and put that nut back on.

Here's the belt pulley nut for your model:

Whirlpool W10759923 Nut - AppliancePartsPros.com

NUT W10759923 / AP5957242 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Jake