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WTW5700SW0 Whirlpool washer agitates but won't always start spin cycle

skipt

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Model Number
WTW5700SW0
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
Rick:

Above you say in this thread:
That the motor reverses during pump-drain, but I can't find anything in the technical information that shows electrically how that is accomplished. I see that the motor has start, low, and high speed windings, and I see a centrifugal switch which clearly aids during motor startup, but I don't see any means of electrically reversing the motor. Can you educate me on how the motor is reversed?

I'm mainly trying to get up to speed on the design and operation because today I had some loud clunking noise during the transition from drain to spin, but by cycling the motor and wash cycles, and by manually turning the tub, the problem went away and won't seem to repeat. I suspect something in the neutral drain area became dislodged and then fell back into place. But, in anticipation of the noise coming back, I'd like to fully understand how it works, hence my question about reversing the motor.

Thanks

Skip T.

Added model number
 
Last edited by a moderator:

skipt

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Do you have the exact same model?
Good question, my model is WTW5700SW0 which I think is different than the OP and could explain why I can't find any motor reverse circuitry. Rather, I suspect that the motor always runs in the same direction, and drain is achieved by running the motor at high speed with the gearcase in the neutral drain mode. My conjecture is that this would overcome the drain standpipe head, whereas during agitate/slow motor speed there isn't enough pumping power to overcome the standpipe head. I have a clear filter at the output of the drain hose into the standpipe, and my limited observation over the years is that there is some gurgling at the top of the drain standpipe when agitating but nothing close to complete drain flow, which seems consistent with my conjecture. Does this make sense r.e. a motor that doesn't seem to be designed to reverse?

When it spins the spin is powerful, so I think the clutch isn't part of the recent noise I heard when transitioning from drain to spin. I should also mention that for quite a while the machine was banging at the end on each spin cycle. When the banging problem got really bad I took it apart and cleaned the brake shoes. That solved the banging and the stop after spin is now terrific, but I'm wondering if that condition could have caused some damage to the neutral drain mechanism. I already know the banging caused a stress crack in the tub which I had to repair with a piece of plastic from a jug and some silicone sealant. So far that fix seems to be working fine.

I suspect a problem in the neutral drain mechanism, maybe an intermittent mechanical problem, perhaps caused by operation for a while without a good spin brake. If I am not off track I plan to jumper my lid switch (it needs replaced anyway, the connector is showing some melting) and observe a few actual cycles (with no manual intervention) to see what is happening during the transition from agitate to drain to spin. Maybe do this without a load and then with a load. Anyway, I appreciate your help on understanding the system and your opinion if the neutral drain mechanism is the most likely cause of the recent noise during transition from drain to spin.
 

skipt

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Ohio

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,188
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
Oops, my bad. I looked up the wrong machine. The direction of current flow through the start windings determines the direction.
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
44,188
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
I'm not sure what you're asking about, the circuit for the motor reversal or transmission neutral drain transition from agitate to spin.
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skipt

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Oops, my bad. I looked up the wrong machine. The direction of current flow through the start windings determines the direction.
OK, got it. And it looks like current flow through the start winding is reversed by contacts 7 and 14 of the timer, correct?

I need to take a closer look at the symptoms, but as I do that, which would you say is the more likely culprit, the timer or the neutral drain mechanism? From reading elsewhere, timers fail more frequently than the neutral drain mechanism. I understand contact wear, maybe 7 or 14 of the timer has been eroded. They look like double pole contacts from the diagram, which would make sense in order to implement the reversal.

Thanks again.

Skip T.
 

skipt

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Thanks Rick.

I'm waiting for the lid switch to arrive and I think when I install it I am going to pull the timer, open it up, and inspect the contacts. The reason I'm hesitating on a new timer (besides $$) is because I'm still wondering if there is a problem in the neutral drain mechanism, coupler, clutch, or brake release mechanism.

Specifically, after more careful testing, here is a better description of the problem: Most times a cycle will be completely fine, i.e. no noise on any spins. Sometimes, during the first spin of any cycle, a noise occurs as the spin is ramping up to full speed. At that point if I stop the machine and then restart it, the spin restarts and proceeds fine and all subsequent spins of that cycle are fine.

To me this points away from the timer and perhaps to the neutral drain mechanism, brake release, clutch or coupler. I've ordered a coupler and clutch kit (which includes the brake release cam) because they are pretty cheap and will hit most of those suspect areas all at once.
 

skipt

Premium Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
keep us posted. (y)
The parts (coupler and clutch rebuild kit with brake release cam) have arrived but I haven't installed them yet for the following reason: after two days of laundry and some detailed note taking I have observed/confirmed that the problem occurred only on the first spin cycle of the day, and in each case the loads were quite different size/cycle wise. Once again, the problem is that the first spin of the day is weak/non-existent and noisy, but if the spin is interrupted and then restarted it proceeds fine. After that all subsequent loads for the day the spin is fine. Since it is a once-a-day problem I am holding off on installing the parts, but I suspect that the coupler, clutch, and/or brake release cam has some defect that surfaces when the system sets for a long time but then goes away after the system gets up and running. Maybe the coupler has a soft spot or worn area, or maybe the clutch has a loose pad. Anyway, I will tear it down again when the problem gets worse or when winter arrives and I am stuck indoors with not so much to do.
 
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