WTW5700XW2 Whirlpool Cabrio Leaking like a sieve!

Xanthorpe

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Feb 17, 2018
Messages
35
Location
AL
Model Number
WTW5700XW2
Brand
Whirlpool
Age
6-10 years
After replacing the sensor/actuator, then the door lid switch and door strike, I thought I was (almost) finished with repairs for the time being. However, I had noticed some water coming out from under the machine during previous repairs. Although it didn't look like a ton (at the time, when the machine was in its normal spot), I decided to take the back cover off and see if I could determine where the leak was coming from.

After pulling the back cover, I reconnected the drain hose and started a normal cycle. Everything was fine during sensor mode and with about 3-4 inches of water in the drum - then it started pouring out all over.

The only thing I can think of is that we had a mesh basket between the washer (on the right) and the dryer (on the left) and the towels, bedspread, etc. were absorbing all the leakage. Here are some images (hopefully) starting with the first leak:

Washer leak 1.jpg

Washer leak 2.jpg

Washer leak 3.jpg

Washer leak 4.jpg

After spending about $125 on the previous three parts, is it time to kick this machine to the curb, or is there a fix that this less-than-handy man can employ to stop this insane leak?

Thanks!
 

Jake

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Xanthorpe

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Jake,

Thank you very much for your reply!

A couple of follow up questions:

1. First, our Whirlpool Cabrio doesn't have an agitator in the tub; would the video still provide the correct procedure for our machine (model #wtw5700xw2), if I just start at the point where the video shows the technician removing the drive belt, actuator, capacitor, etc.?

2. Since we don't have an agitator in the tub, will I need to purchase the Spanner Wrench TB123A (which looks like it's only used to remove the agitator)?

Thanks again for your help!
 

Jake

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Yes, you will need that spanner wrench on yours too.

The only difference is yours has the washplate, and the one in the video has a regular agiatator.

To watch the video of how to remove the washplate and hub nut Click here: W10324651 Basket Drive Block Kit

Jake
 

Xanthorpe

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Excellent; do you think I might need the basket drive block kit also, or is that one of those things I won't know until I dig in?

That penetrating oil looks like the bomb!
 

Jake

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Yes, if where you live the water is hard, I would order the drive block kit as well.:)

You can try penetrating oil.:)

Jake
 

Xanthorpe

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Thanks; based on what I can find, we're one of the few places in the country that does not generally suffer from hard water. I'll pick up some of that penetrating oil and cross my fingers. :)
 

Jake

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Ok, sounds good.

Keep us posted.

Jake
 

Xanthorpe

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Well....

I ended up buying the basket drive block kit because the old part at the bottom that grooves into the drive shaft looked a little sketchy. It didn't crumble, but it looked like it would be in a few months or so; better safe than sorry.

Long story short, I have everything apart, the tub out, the drive motor pulled and the old tub seal seems practically welded to the base of the drive shaft. I'm working on trying to cut it off with a knife because even a screw driver wouldn't free it.

Any wisdom on removing a tub seal that's stuck to the base of the drive shaft?

The video example is a brand new machine and the tub seal is conveniently on the bottom of the tub... not so in my case!

Thanks!
 

Xanthorpe

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Here are a few images; I don't want to go after it too hard because I don't want the drive housing to get scored and not be able to form a good seal with the new tub seal...

Any magic tricks to get this stinking rubber off would be most appreciated!

Tub seal stuck 1.jpg

Stuck Rubber seal 2.jpg

Stuck Rubber seal 3.jpg
 

Jake

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Yes, yours looks really stuck on there. I dont know of any other way to remove it, other than what your doing now.

If your not able to remove the tub seal, then you'd need to order the transmission, unfortunately.

Here's the transmission for your model you can order:
W11132267 Gearcase


Jake
 

Xanthorpe

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That is ridiculous (not directing this at you!)! After all the parts I've bought, this is a real let down.

I have talked to a couple of other folks today and that is the consensus as well. One gentleman even warned that due to the rust on the current drive shaft, he suspected pitting on the part covered by the stuck seal and also believed I would need the new transmission kit.

On the other hand, one tech suggested using a blow dryer to heat the old seal and a razor knife to scrape off the old rubber once it became soft enough. and then cleaning up the area with fine sandpaper. Tedious, but if it works, it could save us a couple hundred bucks (when you throw in shipping).
 

Xanthorpe

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Good evening. I feel like I've made some progress, but there is still some rubber/whatever down in the ring. Also, I haven't gotten all the rubber from the outside where the seal was stuck on. Between a knife, blow dryer, screwdriver, snippers, and some fine-grit sandpaper, it looks like MAYBE I might be able to salvage this thing. Jake, if you around this evening, please take a look at the shots below and let me know if you think I'm close to being able to get a new tub seal on here with a decent chance of success.

I'm heading to the store to get some heavier duty sandpaper for the outside and possibly inside as well, although it's hard to get any pressure down in the crack.

Tub seal clean 1.jpg

Tub seal clean 2.jpg

Tub seal clean 3.jpg

Thanks!
 

Xanthorpe

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Update: A trip to O'Reilly's yielded a new razor knife, various grits of sandpaper and some brake part cleaner (recommended by the mechanic) after I showed pictures and we discussed the situation. Used all of the above and was able to pretty well clean out the hole through which the drive shaft comes out. It wasn't perfect, but looked decent. The outside of the collar (top and sides) was pretty clean after more razor knife/sandpaper treatments.

Bottom line: I went for it. Installed the new tub seal (after greasing) and reassembled the washer. Ran the calibration and it completed successfully. At the very end of the calibration procedure it spit some water into the tub, but not enough to tell if the seal is water tight. It's 11 p.m. and I can't bring myself to lie down behind the machine and run a cycle to check for leaks. That will come tomorrow after coffee!

I'll update with the final outcome afterward.

Good night and God bless!
 

Xanthorpe

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First wash update:

Put a small load in and ran on the Normal cycle with fabric softener switch engaged. Watching from the rear with the back panel off, everything held as the tub filled. The machine ran leak-free for the first cycle, but then I spotted a bit of water on the floor. As the cycles went on, and the machine drained, refilled for rinse, etc. there was some leakage. It wasn't a torrent like before, but no denying there is a leak in the same area.

I'm planning to wash another load or two to see if it gets worse, better, or stays the same. Part of me (the part that likes to deny reality) is hoping that 2-3 loads will seat the tub seal in a bit better and self-resolve. The pessimist in me is just going to waiting for the new tub seal to slip even more and the flood to return. The realist in me believes it will likely continue about like it is and wants to stick the baffle pad back underneath, stick a rug or towel under the machine on the floor and hope for the best... not ready to spend another $200 on a new transmission at the moment.

Sigh.
 

Xanthorpe

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Second load update:

Well, it seemed to leak worse than the first load. However, I do have the back cover on to provide support for the drain hose, so I can't get a good look. That said, I put a towel under the motor/transmission and by the end of the load the towel was pretty wet. I'm letting the clean clothes sit in the wash tub while I dry the towels and I'm going to keep putting dry towels under the motor/transmission and washing until we get caught up on laundry unless it just starts flooding the laundry room.

Question(s) that needs answering (Jake or anyone):

1. Considering the issues I had getting the old tub seal off, should I assume that regardless of all that work, there is something fundamentally wrong with the transmission/drive shaft that no amount of perfectly re-installing the new tub seal will fix? If I answer this question yes, then I will have to buy a new transmission:

Sub-question: Does the new transmission come with a new tub seal?

2. If I want to continue the battle (perhaps putting off the inevitable), is it even worthwhile tearing everything down again to reinstall the new tub seal (after a thorough dry/clean/grease of the seal and attempting to reassemble in the hopes that I just didn't get a good seal on the tub when I reinstalled the transmission?

At this point, that is about the only other thing I can think of that might help the leak - IF - I was successful in my removal of the old seal, cleaning/sanding of the drive shaft collar, and installation of the new seal.

I'm polling the audience here... should I ruin my budget and just get the new transmission?

Thanks to all who have read/responded.
 

Jake

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Yes, the new transmission comes with the tub seal already installed for you.:)

Well it sounds like you almost had the leak stopped. I've yet to replace the tub seal on this model as of yet, but it seems better to just order the transmission instead of the tub seal.

One last thing I could advise before ordering the transmission is Permatex RTV sealant: http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex--clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant-detail
You can get it at Lowe's, Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware.

Then liberally apply it to the base of the tub seal.

Jake
 

Xanthorpe

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Jake; thanks for getting back to me. I'm up for anything that keeps me from spending $200 on a transmission!

When you say the "base" of the tub seal, do you mean the outside surface area that mates with the plastic ring at the bottom of the tub?

How long do you recommend I leave it to cure before I run the washer? The instructions recommend 24 hours.
 

Jake

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When you say the "base" of the tub seal, do you mean the outside surface area that mates with the plastic ring at the bottom of the tub?
Yes, exactly.

Yes 24 hours.

Jake
 

Xanthorpe

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Jake,

As always, I've got more questions! I'm attaching a blended image of both the transmission and the new tub seal (which I can't get out of the tub!).

The questions are embedded in the image, but for clarity's sake, they are:

1. Can I put some of the RTV sealant inside the transmission drive shaft collar without causing issues for the drive shaft turning? If so, would it even help?

2. The other place I'm thinking of putting the RTV sealant is inside the tub, around the outside edge of the tub seal. I can't see this helping, but was thinking it couldn't hurt as long as I don't pile it up.

Looking at the bottom end of the drive shaft (where the belt assembly, etc. goes), I see slightly rusty looking moisture. It definitely appears that there is water ingress down the drive shaft. I'm still hoping I can RTV it enough to keep it from leaking and kick the new transmission can down the road a ways, but I just don't want to put RTV somewhere I shouldn't.

Thoughts?

Washer transmission and seal (questions).jpg
 
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