I found the ice maker not making any ice at all, the ice maker would cycle but not put water in the ice maker tray. I volt tested the electrical connector that goes to the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid while the ice maker was cycling, and my multimeter was only showing 48 volts AC, and that ice maker water inlet valve solenoid needs 120 volts AC to put water in the ice maker tray.
I replaced the ice maker and it worked great, I could hear and see the water going into the ice maker tray.
Here’s the ice maker for this model:
When I arrived I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, then unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start relay from the side of the compressor and used my digital multimeter to ohm test it, I set my meter on 200 ohms, and my meter’s numbers didn’t change when I ohm tested it, and that means its bad.
Normal ohms should be 12 ohms or less, usually around 5 ohms. I installed a new compressor start relay and the compressor came right on and started cooling. I also cleaned the customers condenser coil. located underneath the front of the refrigerator, behind the kickplate grille.
Here’s the compressor start relay for this model:
When I arrived there was no ice at all in the ice bin that’s located directly under the ice maker. I removed the front cover, just unsnaps off, and turned the gear in the direction of the arrow, then it started cycling on its own and it put water in towards the end of the cycle.
The freezer was at 5 degrees which is good. I told the customer I would call him later that evening to see if it dumped the ice out, So four hours later I called the customer and he said no ice had dumped into the ice bin, I ordered a new ice maker and went out to install it, and he called me back saying the new ice maker dumped the first batch of ice.
Here’s the ice maker for this model:
241798231 Ice Maker
I went out to this refrigerator and found the back panel inside the freezer had massive frost build-up on it. I first unplugged the refrigerator from the wall electrical outlet, then ohm tested the defrost heater and found it was bad, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change. Normal ohms for most at defrost heaters is mainly about 30 ohms or less.
I completely defrosted the entire evaporator coil, which is located behind the back panel in the freezer, then I removed the old defrost heater assembly and installed the new defrost heater assembly, worked great!
Here’s the defrost heater assembly for this model:
WR51X10055 Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
When I arrived the back panel inside the freezer has massive frost buildup on it. I unplugged the refrigerator from the wall outlet, then ohm tested the defrost thermostat while it was frosty and the heating element, both ohm tested good.
I ordered and replaced the adaptive defrost control board and it worked great!
Before the adaptive defrost control board is replaced its a must to defrost the entire evaporator coil from top to bottom.
Here is the adaptive defrost control board for this model:
W11227239 Adaptive Defrost Control Board
The washer would drain, but not spin. I replaced the shift actuator and it worked good.
This is the shift actuator for this model:
There is a “HOW TO” video when you click the part link to the shift actuator.
I explain in detail “HOW TO” test this shift actuator in our appliance repair forums: FIXED: WTW4800BQ0 Whirlpool Washer Won’t Spin
There is a data sheet in each washer, you have to raise the top on the washer, then it will be located inside the front panel on the left as your standing in front of the washer.
This video shows you “HOW TO” raise the top of the washer: Whirlpool/Kenmore Top-Load Washer Disassembly