When I arrived there was no ice at all in the ice bin that’s located directly under the ice maker. I removed the front cover, just unsnaps off, and turned the gear in the direction of the arrow, then it started cycling on its own and it put water in towards the end of the cycle.
The freezer was at 5 degrees which is good. I told the customer I would call him later that evening to see if it dumped the ice out, So four hours later I called the customer and he said no ice had dumped into the ice bin, I ordered a new ice maker and went out to install it, and he called me back saying the new ice maker dumped the first batch of ice.
Here’s the ice maker for this model:
241798231 Ice Maker
I went out to this refrigerator and found the back panel inside the freezer had massive frost build-up on it. I first unplugged the refrigerator from the wall electrical outlet, then ohm tested the defrost heater and found it was bad, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change. Normal ohms for most at defrost heaters is mainly about 30 ohms or less.
I completely defrosted the entire evaporator coil, which is located behind the back panel in the freezer, then I removed the old defrost heater assembly and installed the new defrost heater assembly, worked great!
Here’s the defrost heater assembly for this model:
WR51X10055 Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
When I arrived the back panel inside the freezer has massive frost buildup on it. I unplugged the refrigerator from the wall outlet, then ohm tested the defrost thermostat while it was frosty and the heating element, both ohm tested good.
I ordered and replaced the adaptive defrost control board and it worked great!
Before the adaptive defrost control board is replaced its a must to defrost the entire evaporator coil from top to bottom.
Here is the adaptive defrost control board for this model:
W11227239 Adaptive Defrost Control Board
The washer would drain, but not spin. I replaced the shift actuator and it worked good.
This is the shift actuator for this model:
There is a “HOW TO” video when you click the part link to the shift actuator.
I explain in detail “HOW TO” test this shift actuator in our appliance repair forums: FIXED: WTW4800BQ0 Whirlpool Washer Won’t Spin
There is a data sheet in each washer, you have to raise the top on the washer, then it will be located inside the front panel on the left as your standing in front of the washer.
This video shows you “HOW TO” raise the top of the washer: Whirlpool/Kenmore Top-Load Washer Disassembly
I went to the customers house and found the dryer running but not heating at all. The Ignitor was not even turning on. I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet, then took the dryer apart and ohm tested the thermal limiter that’s located on the burner tube and it ohm tested bad, no continuity at all.
I ordered and replaced the thermal limiter and it worked good and started heating.
Here’s the thermal limiter for this model:
Went on a service call in Parker, Arizona for a Whirlpool washer, model number WTW8500DC0, that wasn’t filling fast enough, very slow fill and it would time out per the control board. The error code was F8E1 LONG FILL.
I checked the customers water pressure to the washer on both hot and cold and it was good water pressure. Then I checked the water inlet valve screens and they were not clogged.
I ordered a new water inlet valve and went back to the customers house to install it, and it worked great, much faster water fill and no more error code F8E1.
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
Western Arizona Forecast
Cloudy. A slight chance of showers in the evening, then a chance of showers after midnight. Not as cool. Lows 42 to 52. Southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of measurable rain 50 percent. Rainfall less than a tenth of an inch.
Showers. Locally heavy rain possible in the afternoon. Cooler. Highs 56 to 61. Southeast wind 10 to 15 mph. Chance of rain 90 percent. Rainfall up to three quarters of an inch possible.